Nearly two decades after it started serving bison burgers, tri-tip and the city's first tastes of regional beers on tap at what used to be a printing shop,Winchesters Grill & Saloon in downtown Ventura is getting ready to throw itself a birthday party.
But the restaurant as we know it almost didn't happen.
"We knew we were doing a western-themed steakhouse. But our original working name was The Range," said co-ownerJ.R. Ford, of Ventura.
The name changed when a former partner in the business started bringing in decorative items that were specifically Wild Westin nature. The pieces included vintage photographs and leather horse collars, and a brass cow skull that still hangs over the rows of beer taps — except for the time it fell and dented the metal drip tray below.
"Winchester is the rifle that won the West. We liked the sound, the ring of the name,"saidFord, who operates the business with its remaining original owner,Sam Book, of Santa Barbara.
For its "20th-anniversary bash and cornhole tourney" from noon to 10 p.m. April 29 and noon to 7 p.m. April30, they plan to take over an adjoining parking lot for a gathering that will include live music, an outdoor bar and kitchen, and a two-day cornhole tournament with a $3,600 purse. Entry to the party will be free, but registration ($80 per team) is required for the tournament. For information, click on http://winchestersgrill.com/20th.
The party highlights what is true for many businesses but is perhaps even more so for restaurants: Making it to the 20th year ain't for sissies. Of the restaurants that were already open when Winchesters moseyedinto town, only three remain, Ford noted:Bombay Bar & Grill,The Sportsman Restaurant & LoungeandTipps Thai Cuisine.
Downtown Ventura was in the midst of one of its numerous efforts to remake itself when Winchesters opened on May 21, 1997. The debut cameafter the widening of the sidewalks and the removal of the beloved, mushroom-shaped ficus benjaminastreet trees but before the grand opening of the Century Downtown 10movie theater a block away.
Winchesters contributed to the transformation by taking over a dingy stucco building that had previously been home to The Copy Machine. A "before" photo of its exterior shows a metal security grateover the front door and a palm tree growing nearby. Today, the building sports a shelteredwrap-around patio; the palm tree towers overhead.
Inside, Ford and company discovered decor-worthy rafters hidden behind the drop ceiling of acoustic tiles. The sandblasted wood now bristles with hundreds of tap handles, some salvaged from King's Tavern, the British pub Fordand Book once operated in Santa Barbara.
The retired tap handles tell the story of the craft beer movement,Ford said.
"We've always had 41beers on tap. The composition was just different.They were almost all European beers in the beginning, whereas now there's only one left.Stella Artois," said Ford. "Right now, everything is about local."
Winchesters was the first place in Ventura County to offer Firestone Walker Brewing Co. beers on tap, and the first to carrySurf Breweryproducts outside of the Ventura brewery's own taproom, added Ford.
He recently rewrote the beverage menu to list beers by location rather than style. Included under the "local beer" heading are Surf, MadeWest and Topa Topa Brewing Co. of Ventura,Institution Ale Co. of Camarillo, M. Special of Goleta and Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co.of Buellton. Making the "a little less local" cut are Firestone, of Paso Robles, and Golden Road, of Los Angeles.
The craft beverage idea also spread to the co*cktails list, which includes a barrel-aged Boulevardier, essentially a Negronimade withRedemption High-Rye Bourbon in place of gin.
Changes to the food menu have included expanding the burger selection. The original prime Angus chuck patty ($12) has been joined by aFree-Range Burgervegan option ($14) andThe Kerby, a combination of turkey, blue cheese and hot wing sauce inspired by Venturan Kerby Zozula($13). The Outlawtops the original Angus patty with jalapeño poppers and pepper-jack cheese ($14).
Ford was so enthralled by the cedar-plank salmon he tried while vacationing in Seattle several years ago that he added the dish to the menu, breaking his own "you don't order seafood at a steakhouse" rule. It is brushed with soy-mustard glaze and served on a blackened plank ($24).
Something else has changed in the past 20 years. "Things were a little rougher then," Ford said, laughing as he stood next to the "Proper attire & good manners required" sign he bought at the Ventura County Fairduring the restaurant's first year of business.
It has since been joined by a small sign that spells out "pet-friendly" guidelines for the patios. Whilethe side patio is reserved for pet-free dining, it notes, the front patio is where "well-mannered dogs up to 25 lbs are welcome to join you."
Winchesters is open from 11:30 a.m. Fridays through Sundays, and from 4 p.m. to closing Mondays through Thursdays. Happy hour runs from4-6:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays (632 E. Main St., 805-653-7446, http://winchestersgrill.com).
OPEN, SHUT AND IN BETWEEN
Published in The Star's Business section on April 12, this week's "Open and Shut" column contained information aboutthe debut of Prospect Coffee Roasters in downtown Ventura, the closure of The Chop Shop Bar & Grillin Simi Valley and how to make required reservations to attend Monday'ssoft-opening Firestone Walker Brewing Co. tap takeover atEMC Seafood & Raw Bar at The Collection at RiverPark in Oxnard.To read it, click on http://bit.ly/2p5Swx6.
Read more:
GOOD FOR WHAT ALES YA
AtInstitution Ale Co.ofCamarillo, the unveiling of a cheeseburger-themed specialty pizza this month coincides with the brewery'sPiece of the Piefundraiser forFOOD Share of Ventura County. Throughout April, the purchase of a pizza or pretzel in the Institution taproom will result in the donation of a meal served to someone in need by the nonprofit food bank.
Currently on tap and/or coming soon are the specialty beersMosaic, a pale ale;Frantic, a coffee stout made in collaboration withBeacon Coffeeand served on nitro, andToasted Mocha Restraint, a maple brown ale on toasted cocoa nibs and coffee (3841 Mission Oaks Blvd., 805-482-3777,http://www.institutionales.com).
Topa Topa Brewing Co.ofVenturawill be the setting for an Earth Day-themed fundraiser for The Abundant Table, a nonprofit farm devoted to education. The event from noon to 2 p.m. April 22 will include a tour of the brewery, farm-to-fork snacks, lunch and drinks — your choice of two craft beers or non-alcoholic aquas frescas. For tickets, $20-$30, click on http://bit.ly/2owHD9C(104 E. Thompson Blvd.)
Ever been to a Frühlingsfest? Here's your chance to experience the traditional German festivalwithout the risk of being seated on an overbooked flight:Enegren Brewing Co. of Moorpark will present its version of the traditional German festival from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. April 22, when a springtime beer known as Maibock will be one of the more than 12 beers on tap. A commemorative ceramic stein will be available for purchase. Games, food trucks, an artisansfare, a farmers market presented by Apricot Lane Farms of Moorpark, and live music by Hazelnuss-Das Music will add to the festivities. Entry is free (444 Zachary St., Suite 120, 805-552-0602,http://www.enegrenbrewing.com).
Surf Brewery ofVenturahas released threenew beers in nearly as many weeks. Making its debut on Tuesdaywas Barrel Aged D-01, a Belgian-style dark quadrupel ale aged in French oak barrels with wild Brettanomyces yeast as part of the brewery's Scientific Series. It is available in individually numbered bottles ($8.50 for 375 ml, $15 for 750 ml) and on tap at Surf. The brewery also recently introduced Wahine Apple, which incorporates Washington-grown apples into its seasonal fruit wheat ale, andPeach Mango IPA, the fifth entry in the brewery's series of seasonal IPAs. Both are available in the taproom and in bottles and kegs at distribution points(4561 Market St., Suite A, 805-644-2739,http://surfbrewery.com).
Five Threads Brewing Co.inWestlake Villagelast month unveiledits expanded tasting room. Linked to the original taproom by an open doorway, the additional space features communal tables, private booths and a pair of swings fashioned from bed headboards by brewery co-owner Neil Shirley. Don't worry: The swings are chained to the floor, so there's no danger of flying too high with a pint ofL'Euphoria IPAin hand (31133 Via Colinas, Suites 109 and 110, 805-457-5990,http://www.fivethreadsbrewing.com).
Lisa McKinnon is a staff writer for The Star. Her Cafe Society column appears most Fridays in the Time Out section and Sundays in the Life section.For between-column updates, follow 805foodie onTwitterandInstagramand "like" theVCS EatsFacebook page.To have the newVCS Eats newsletterdelivered directly to your inbox, go tohttp://bit.ly/VCS_Eatsand type in your email address.
